By Eswar Tavva
The climb was hard. The path was steep, and the rocks were slippery, making it tough to go up. I felt as though something unseen was helping me along the way. As I climbed, sweat ran down my face and soaked my clothes.
Looking up, I saw I was almost at the top—just one hundred more meters to go. On my way up, I saw monkeys jumping and playing in the trees. I also saw other people below, trying hard to climb up like me. It was early morning, around five o'clock. The air was cool, and the sun hadn't come up yet.
I felt relieved when I got to the top. A few people from other countries were already there, sitting quietly and meditating. A boy came up to me, selling water bottles and tea. I bought a water bottle from him and sat on a big rock to watch the sunrise. Beneath me, the world spread out in all directions, the town of Hampi a miniature kingdom from atop Matanga hill.
As I reached the peak of Matanga Hill, a breathtaking view of Hampi and its surrounding landscape spread out before me. According to Ramayana, the place was the hermitage of sage Matanga. Sugriva along with Lord Hanuma took refuge at this Matanga hill. Watching the sunrise, I remembered my brother's words about it. He described it beautifully, "The sun coming up looked like a flower opening in the sky, with golden light spreading everywhere. This light touched the hills, moved over banana farms, and reached the Tungabhadra River, starting a new day." As I made my way back down, a cool breeze carried my thoughts back home.
At three in the morning, I had already packed my luggage in a backpack and secured it to my bike. I left my house quietly and started my first solo bike trip, planning to cover 1600km in total. I aimed to travel 400km each day. On day one, I set off from my home in Hyderabad and made it to Gandikota by evening, known as India's Grand Canyon, stopping to see Yaganti and Belum caves along the route.
"Vittala Temple is just a kilometre from here," brought me back to the present moment. These words came from a security guard overseeing the area. He pointed me in the right direction, and with a word of thanks, I set off towards the Vijaya Vittala Temple. Along the way, I stopped by the Achyutaraya Temple, nestled at the base of Matanga Hill. My brother had mentioned that this temple was among the final magnificent constructions of the Vijayanagara Empire, celebrated for its stunning architecture. After exploring the King's Balance and the remnants of several other temples, I made my way to the Vittala Temple, walking beside the flowing Tungabhadra River.
Studying the pillars, scientists found out they make music not just because they have metal in them, but also because they don't have much silica. I'm talking about the musical pillars at the Vijaya Vittala Temple. This temple has 56 of these musical pillars, also called SaRiGaMa pillars, because they sound like musical notes when you tap them with your thumb. Exactly a year ago today, my brother sent me an audio message of him playing these pillars. I tried to do the same, but I couldn't play them as well as he did. After looking around at the Pearl of Hampi, the famous stone chariot, I decided to take a break and sat down in one of the temple's halls.
The state had been experiencing heavy rains for several days, causing floods in Hampi. News reports highlighted that tourists stranded on Hippi Island were rescued by the Indian Air Force. The forecast warned of more rain to come. Despite this, I was determined not to let anything stop me. I prepared for my journey with all the necessary safety measures for the rain, yet surprisingly, I didn't encounter a single raindrop throughout my trip. The roads in Hampi remained clear of floodwater during my stay. It seemed like the universe was on my side, showing the power of hope and belief.
On my first day, I went to Yaganti Temple, famous for its Pushkarini - a sacred water pond inside the temple, and the Agastya and Venkateswara caves. It's said that saint Agastya meditated here to worship Lord Shiva. Then, I explored Belum Caves, the second-biggest cave system in India. My brother had told me that Jain and Buddhist monks used to live in these caves a long time ago.
After embracing awe-inspiring wonders, I moved out of this temple and reached my room which was located in the Hampi Bazaar. After taking a bath I put on my new clothes and visited Virupaksha temple, which is dedicated to Lord Shiva, known here as Virupaksha or Pampapati. Inside the temple premises, I saw Laxmi. My brother told me that he had fallen in love with Laxmi the moment he saw her. She is the star attraction at that temple. But Laxmi’s life hasn’t always been charmed. Unfortunately, she was separated from her parents at a very young age. When she was four years old, she accidentally killed her guardian which landed her in an observation home. She has been branded a threat. It took time, but since then she’s been rehabilitated. Now she has a permanent job at the temple. She is supporting the livelihood of her guardians and families and the local vendors as they benefit from her presence. Laxmi gives a blessing to whoever gives her a ten rupee note. With beautiful long lashes that surround wide eyes that look too small proportionally to her massive leathery body, Laxmi is the sweetest elephant I have ever seen. No doubt my brother would have fallen in love with her. She was such a beauty.
On my third day alone, I finished seeing the holy places in Hampi and went to see the Pampa Sagar dam in the evening. It's built over the Tungabhadra River, about 20km from Hampi. This popular spot has a lovely garden called Nandana Vanam, places for birds and animals, and a musical fountain. I sat on a bench in the park, ready to watch the sunset. As the sun dipped low, turning the sky orange and disappearing into the river, I found myself drifting into memories from the previous year.
"Come along with me, it'll be an adventure," my brother encouraged.
"I wish I could, but my job's really demanding. Maybe when you start working, you'll understand," I replied, but I was curious. "Tell me about your plan?"
He was busy packing as he outlined his journey. "I'm aiming for 400km each day, so it'll take four days to cover 1600km. The first stop is Gandikota, after seeing the Yaganti Temple and Belum Caves. I'll camp there for the night. The next day, it's on to Lepakshi Temple, through Rayalaseema, and then I'll head to Hampi by evening, via Anantapur and Bellary. I plan to spend a day and two nights in Hampi before heading back to Hyderabad."
"Got everything you need?" I checked.
"Yes, I'm all set," he confirmed.
"Drive safe and keep me posted on your travels," I reminded him.
The next morning, he began his solo bike adventure. But on the third evening, as he was returning to Hampi from Pampa Sagar dam, a tragic incident occurred. A large truck, driving on the wrong side, struck him near NH 67 killing him on the spot.
People who embark on solo journeys might have their reasons but for me, I am in search of his memories.
By Eswar Tavva
Comments